Rei Kawakubo on AI, Black, Young Designers
In a rare interview for Dazed's Autumn 2026 issue, Comme des Garçons founder Rei Kawakubo discusses her A/W26 'Ultimately Black' collection, her
Designer Rei Kawakubo has given a rare interview, published in the Autumn 2026 issue of Dazed magazine. The Comme des Garçons founder discussed her latest collection, the role of AI in creativity, and offered direct advice to young designers.
Kawakubo's Autumn/Winter 2026 show, titled 'Ultimately Black', featured 20 looks in black and six in bright pink. A colleague of the interviewer reportedly wept during the presentation, which one observer described as having a funereal quality reminiscent of Victorian mourning dress.
The Meaning of Black and Pink
When asked what black means within the collection, Kawakubo stated it was essential to her artistic expression. "Black is the colour of resistance, of justice and of independence," she said. Regarding the vivid pink looks interspersed throughout the show, she denied any particular symbolic meaning. Kawakubo explained that the pink exists solely to enhance or reinforce the black, acting like a spice.
The interviewer noted the collection's manipulation of fabric, which ballooned and cocooned the body, was coiled with ruches and ruffles, and was blown out to extreme proportions. The show featured no celebrities, influencers, or famous models, focusing solely on the clothes on a straight catwalk.
On Emotion and Fashion's Role
Kawakubo was asked if she consciously tries to evoke emotion in those who experience her work. She replied that there is no specific purpose, and that while she seeks something new, the result it brings about is something she does not know. When questioned about fashion's role in responding to dark times, she offered a succinct perspective. Kawakubo believes that by expressing oneself through what one wears, one's spirits are lifted, giving fashion a positive effect.
Anecdotes from the article highlight Kawakubo's legendary reticence. Fashion editor Susannah Frankel recalled asking Kawakubo what she was thinking about when designing a collection. In response, Kawakubo simply drew a circle on a piece of paper and walked away. Stylist Judy Blame remembered receiving only the instructions "pink and gold" when commissioned to make jewellery for a past Comme des Garçons collection.
Views on AI and Advice
The designer was also asked for her perspective on the role of AI in creativity. Kawakubo drew a clear distinction between human and machine output. "If there are 100 people, all 100 will be different," she said. "In the case of AI, all 100 would more than likely give almost the same answer."
Her advice for young designers starting out was characteristically brief and direct. Kawakubo urged them, "just keep going, keep going." The full interview appears in the Autumn 2026 issue of Dazed, which goes on sale internationally from September 10.
